...culinary insanity...

.olympic provisions nw.

2011-10-21T09:14:00.000-07:00

.olympic provisions nw.

1632 nw thurman st.

portland, or 97209

.fennel, orange, radicchio, parsley, olives, sherry vinegar.

.roasted cauliflower, celery root, mizuna,

creamy preserved lemon dressing, almonds,

pickled raisins, piment d’espelette.

.chitarra, beef sugo, chêvre, torn herbs.

.rotisserie chicken, bread salad, bacon.

another entry into the dog sitting culinary chronicles

this time the deliciousness of olympic provisions nw

known for their handmade salami and sausages around town

their culinary prowess does not end there but expands to other fare

everything was on point here.. flavor profiles bold an to point

nothing muddled and over complicated or just too fancy for its own good

we started with charcuterie trays, not pictured, olympic's salamis are great

but their other applications of pork were the stand outs, a country pate,

pork rillette, and pork liver pate really surpassed the salamis on the tray

the salads were well thought out, each unique and well seasoned

the fennel, orange salad was well seasoned to balance the sweet with salt

the roasted cauliflower was rich and deep without being heavy

the entrees also hit great notes without overwhelming or over complicating

the chitarra was disappointingly spaghetti rather than hand cut pasta

however, the beef sugo could cover a multitude of culinary sins

rich and deep flavor of braised meat verses what we americans

know as a "sauce" of tomato and ground beef nothingness

balanced with the pop of chèvre and torn mint and basil

it was the surprise that we weren't expecting to stand out

the chicken was what everyone should strive to make at home

brined, well roasted, well seasoned chicken with golden brown skin

the key here was the perfect size bird, probably 3 lbs. total

perfect size and super flavorful bird, not to sound cliche

but it "tasted like chicken" but not in the indescribable since

but in the "this is what chicken SHOULD taste like"

paired with a simple bread salad with kale, apple,

mushrooms, and bacon to soak up all the chicken goodness

finished off with "chocolate salami" made from dark chocolate

it was a clever presentation and a nice subtle end to a great meal

it may not challenge you or come from left field

but olympic provisions with truly satisfy you

job well done

.burger quest.

2011-06-23T23:31:00.001-07:00

.burger quest.

so what's better than a beefy, juicy, 3 napkin burger?
for my money there are very few things that you don't
pay through the nose for here in portlandia
recently my brother and I have taken it upon ourselves
to peruse the burger selection of our surrounding area
and read up on the many lists of "the best burgers"
and in turn I have created a list of my own in ascending order

#7: little big burger

this tasty little guy is larger than a slider but smaller than
your average burger (hence the name) solid flavor and
hits the spot for $3.75 and being a block from work

#6: Tasty n Sons

this guy was the disappointment of the group
for a burger coming from one of my favorite brunch spots
it was a solid burger, but just nothing fancy

#5: metrovino

this guy was a definite 3 napkin excursion, maybe even 4
messy and delicious but not as beefy as some as it's overtakers

#4: brunch box

so this thing of beauty is the ucanhascheezburger
nothing screams burger like two grilled cheeses
this is the burger you don't really want to confess to
truly liking but you can't not love it

#3: little bird bistro

this beauty really was about the bun burger dance than any other
a perfectly chewy ciabatta bun balances with a juicy burger and ample aioli

#2: yakuza

this big boy is a result of the sum of it's parts equaling more
kobe beef, truffle shoelace potatoes, sriracha mayo, goat cheese
flavors that you thing might overwhelm dance beautifully together

#1: clyde common

in my humble opinion this is the best burger in portland
of course any burger with pork fat replacing beef fat
in the magical mixture that is the 80/20 ratio
is going to get my attention and affection
pair the deeply charred yet gloriously rare burger
with rich tomato jam and pickled red onions to cut
through the symphony of pig fat... straight delicious
plus it's only $6 at happy hour... and it's two block from work

.castagna.

2011-06-09T23:14:00.000-07:00

.castagna.
1752 se hawthorne blvd
portland, oregon 97214

green strawberries
smoked cod
young pine
baked mussel jus

crab
mascarpone
lime
sorrel
flowers

spring onions
beef tongue
beef marrow
sorrel
soup from the tops

squid
charcoal vegetable purée
sorrel
mint

pine nut gravy
morels
rabbit sausage
sea beans
nettles

pork roast
grilled leeks
yeast
pine nuts

lamb collar
wheat berries
wheat grass
buttermilk
wild leek

chinook salmon
ramps
smoked fat
bouillon of toasted fir

beets soaked in wheat whiskey
rye ice cream
sorrel
bavarian malt

sherbet
lemon pulp
wild flower meringue
crocus sativus

rhubarb
toasted oats
olive oil
mastic ice cream
flowers

so i'm becoming quite the professional dog-sitter
and now that we've grown to two dogs and an 11 day trip
it called for quite the restaurant experience as payment
so on this lovely thursday evening in pdx: myself, the lady friend,
and the bro & sis all meandered over to castagna
fair warning, this meal took us over two hours
so if you're planning a go, don't plan anything afterward
it was definitely a unique dining experience
from the plating to the ever present earthy flavors
this was reminiscent of dining by a mossy stream
in the middle of the woods... but in a good way
the use of foraged food is paramount
but it blends with modern technique to create
something that is fresh and unexpected
if not decidedly portland
standouts for me personally were the morels
because rabbit sausage, like bacon, makes anything better;
the pork, which goes without saying;
and the beets which brought an earthy end to the meal
if you want to taste the season go here...

.skippy's.

2011-03-23T13:04:00.001-07:00

.skippy's.

624 W 4th Street

Winston-Salem, NC 27101

all beef hotdogs

pretzel buns

fresh cut fries

so it's fairly apparent that all i did was eat when i was home

and i definitely feel like that was the case as i sit here engorged

but it wouldn't be a trip home without some of my favorite flavors

this is one of those wicked combinations that just work

so take a garlicky hotdog... split it in half and griddle it hard

get it nice and crisp on the inside and the skin side

then slap it in a fresh baked pretzel roll

oh yes my friends, i said pretzel roll

chewy yeasty delights giving the dog a friendly hug

that bad boy has been toasted

with a little butter on that same griddle

all i need is a little spicy mustard and i'm one happy man

it's crunchy, chewy, yeasty, garlicky, salty, tangy...

everything that makes me all warm and fuzzy inside

then pair that with some properly fried fries

put a little splash of malt vinegar on the fries and you're done

you have officially had the best hotdog you ever will

if you're in the winston-salem area it's worth the trip

but make sure you get there early or a little late

because there will be a wait for these beauties at noon

.good things come in strip malls.

2011-03-23T04:55:00.000-07:00

.good things come in strip malls.

.south college sandwich & deli.

332 S College Rd

Wilmington, NC 28403

a recipe for greatness...

an unassuming store front...

a sandwich with history...

well made food...

so it's been a while since i've updated

but being back home for vacation

has spurred some culinary rehashing of my food past

there are the tastes of home that always bring back fond memories

and this was one of my first food exposures in wilmington

the "beef on weck" is a sandwich that is made great by simplicity

the kummelweck is made fresh everyday at the shop and the crunch

from the coarse sea salt and caraway really set off the roll

then roasted angus beef that is well seasoned and meltingly tender

top that off with a little creamy horseradish and the beef's jus

seriously this is one fantastic sandwich....

then on the side you get a pile of made to order potato chips

which are the perfect balance between crisp and slightly chewy

it's a great combination in a place that you could drive right by...

so the lesson of the day comes from my junior quote in the yearbook:

"life moves pretty fast, if you don't stop and look

around once and a while you might miss it"

Ferris Bueller probably wasn't referring to food

but he was right nonetheless.

a side note: if you've ever heard of

Buffalo Wild Wings being called BW3's

and thought it curious because there are only two W's

it's because they were originally called Buffalo Wild Wings & Weck

after this same tasty sandwich...

.where i've been.

2010-09-20T22:56:00.001-07:00

.where i've been.

so for those of you who have been

wondering where i've disappeared too

this has been home sweet home for the last two weeks

i've wrapped up my last classes in culinary school

and have started into the food world on my externship at clarklewis

clarklewis is a quintessential pacific northwest restaurant

a play off Lewis and Clark the explorers, it is an italian themed

restaurant featuring handmade pastas and

items from the wood fired grill

i really can't say enough about the place

and all the experience i am gaining

it's been amazing to work next to some of the best cooks i've met

and to learn directly from them in a high end fast paced restuarant

on top of that i've been working more hours at sur la table

so days off are rare and every moment of rest i can get,

i definitely take advantage of.... but these are the years of my life

when i'm supposed to work alot, sleep a little,

and have fun in the processand that is definitely what i am doing...

i hope to blog on the rare occasion that i get to cook for myself

or i may try to sneak a camera into work and

capture some of the magic that is plated every evening...

check out clarklewis here... clarklewis

and any of you in the pacific northwest;

swing by and i'll make your dinner

atleast the salads or desserts right now...

.simpatica brunch.

2010-07-20T15:20:00.001-07:00

.simpatica dining hall.

828 se ash st.

www.simpaticacatering.com

belgian waffles

house cured bacon

huckleberry syrup

chantilly cream

brioche french toast

house made sausage

oregon strawberry syrup

eggs benedict

house made canadian bacon

hollandaise

roasted potatoes

chicken & waffles

huckleberry syrup

crepes

duck confit, porcini mushroom conserve, caramelized onion

pickled blueberries, bacon, creme fraiche filling

green salad

so my folks came in town and brought my grandmother

it was her first time visiting the west coast

so we did the "portland" rounds and showed her the best

of the pacific northwest... of course including food

i had just cooked the previous post's meal the night before

but as proper foodies, we awoke ready for food yet again

so simpatica was the obvious choice for some brunch fare

unlike their evening routine, there are items you can choose

the problem is that each things sounds so good that it's

way to narrow what you want to just one thing

needless to say it was all delicious but i will expound on why

up top we have the waffles which were amazingly light

crisp on the outside with sweet nothingness in the middle

then add some huckleberry syrup and chantilly cream

with a side of house cured bacon... almost cruel

my grandmother and dad ordered this so i got to polish

off the rest of her's after she was done... not to shabby

next was my sister in law's french toast

also light and delicious with amazing syrup

simpatica's sausage was excellent with tons of herbs

my mom's eggs benedict was spot on

perfectly poached eggs with house made canadian bacon

that is enough to make this southern boy blush...

next the chicken & waffles...

what bites i could steal from my brother were great

the chicken had an awesome coating that included fenugreek

that paired with the sweet waffle and huckleberry syrup

...enters jealousy for not ordering it myself...

and last but certainly not least... my choice

of course if you know me or have been following the blog

you already know that i would be lured

with the gleam of duck confit from miles away

appropriately small crepes rolled around a complex filling

with richness from the duck and the tart pop of blueberry

it was well balanced and paired with a lovely salad

great great great food... simpatica never disappoints

.market meal.

2010-07-17T21:13:00.001-07:00

.market meal.

frisee

lemon vinaigrette

parmigiano reggiano

poached wag farm egg

oregon white truffle

heirloom tomatoes

wild onion flowers

fried squash blossom

extra virgin olive oil

aged balsamic

seared golden trout

charred sweet corn

roasted pork loin

sauteed romanesco

prickly pear braggot sauce

so today was a spectacular day in the market

the summer's best were all represented

in addition to a few surprise discoveries

this all woven together made a pretty fantastic meal

it all started with white truffles... not a bad start

some lovely frisee tossed in a light lemon vinaigrette

then a generous shaving of parmigiano atop the greens

then a perfectly runny poached farm egg

all smothered with shaved white truffle

it was pitch perfect from first bite to last

being that it was summer i felt it wasn't inappropriate

to serve two salads... so next to the tomatoes

i found some beautiful small heirloom tomatoes

these were simply put on the plate with possibly

the coolest market find to date... wild onion flowers

these are small stemmed flowers that grow just above ground

their onion flavor lies within the purple flower... amazing

the striking color on the plate looks like a simple garnish

but when you taste onion in the dish and can't find it

you wouldn't suspect the source to be these guys

next my other favorite find... squash blossoms

i've been seeking these out for some time but

most farmers say they are too delicate to sell

viridian farms was kind enough to have some for me today

these i stuffed with a lovely mixture of ricotta, basil, and parm

then fried quickly in a rice flour batter till crisp

this added the richness to the dish to counter the tart tomatoes

then gilding the lily with some aged balsamic

it was everything you expect summer to taste like

then on to the finale of the meal

on one end of the plate i quickly charred a square peg farm's

loin chop then paired it with sauteed romanesco

on the other end sat golden trout atop charred local sweet corn

i tried to tie these two together with a prickly pear braggot sauce

made from reducing this limited edition ale

the sauce needed a little more body possibly from some demi

but i was without, so it was slightly off; but the other elements

on the plate were all nicely paired individually

so in the end the first two dishes were knock outs

but the entree needed a little tweaking to perfect it

.table for twelve.

2010-07-01T19:43:00.000-07:00

.table for twelve.

fried green tomato

duck confit

pickled radish

corn cream

pancetta hash

seared snapper

seared duck breast

shaved asparagus

sauteed pink peas

asparagus tips

port duck reduction

grilled rack of lamb

minted butter bean hummus

truffled morrell mushrooms

vanilla orange buttermilk panna cotta

blueberry sorbet

honey lace cookie

it's been almost fourteen months since i blogged my first meal

i was cooking to impress a large crew of my parent's friends

and it was partly due to that meal that i decided on school

so here i am a little over a year later cooking for the same table

almost a year of school under my belt, i had to craft a meal

to show what i've learned and how i've grown culinarily speaking

this was quite the process because my reputation was on the line

the first course had to be bold and outside of the box

i took the southern classic of fried green tomatoes and used it

as a vehicle for duck confit, which i made myself for the first time

it was well worth the multiple day effort or curing and slow cooking

the tangy but crisp tomato worked beautifully with the salty duck

which was amped up by sweet pickled radish, and it all sang

next onto a nice light soup with lovely bits of salty pork and fish

this was the one dish that could have been tweaked slightly

i went with a cold corn soup of fresh pureed corn and cream

with no other seasoning, it was pleasantly sweet with a

unique hint of some sort of melon from the corn

into this i spooned a pancetta and potato hash sauteed crisp

and to top it off a little seared snapper with anchor the dish

i wasn't too pleased with the way the cold and hot played

the only bowls i had enough of were too deep so the hash

got lost swimming in the soup and the snapper seamed to float

rather than sit above the soup, i would have preferred

a shallow wider bowl that allowed the hash to pile up

and place the snapper atop the savory pillar of loveliness

next on to the most laborious course but well worth it

the labor come in the form of a good 36 hours invested

in making duck demi-glace from the two ducks i acquired

this started with duck stock, into espagnole, then to demi

which i finished with port to make a killer sauce

the rest of the dish was a cake walk after the sauce

simply searing the duck and sauteing the peas and tips

the shaved asparagus was raw dressed with lemon

the sauce definitely was the hero but everything else aided

next to the lamb which was the favorite protein of the night

the lamb was grilled and then paired with a butter bean hummus

which highlighted mint and garlic, and morrell mushrooms

that were sauteed in truffle butter and finished with lemon

i needed to end on a strong foot with a dessert appropriate

for the heat and humidity of the south, panna cotta was the choice

an orange and vanilla infused buttermilk panna cotta was

a tangy way to finish the evening with a blueberry sorbet

and a crisp caramelized lace cookie made from honey

in all i feel i did well, not a perfect meal by any means

but pretty tasty and a good showing of my growth as a cook

.build a burger.

2010-06-30T10:43:00.000-07:00

.build a burger.

pancetta burger

tillamook extra sharp cheddar

green zebra heirloom tomato

heirloom tomato ketchup

pickled onions

potato bun

mache

aioli

so the goal was to build a hamburger from the bottom up

i wanted to have a hand in as many ingredients as possible

to create the best combination of flavors on the bun

so we'll start from the bottom and work our way up

i found really nice potato buns at the fresh market

they were nice an soft with a rich yellow interior

these lightly grilled were the perfect base for the burger

then some homemade aioli was utilized to act as the

barrier between the juices of the burger and the crisp bun

next sits a pancetta burger made from ground chuck and round

with the added embellishment of ground pancetta in the mix

the salty pork adds a nice richness to the burger

on top of the fatty goodness sits perfectly sharp cheddar

for all not lucky enough to be oregonians and know the

wonders of tillamook cheese... drive over to fresh market

and willingly fork out the cash for the cheese in the black wrapper

you will surely not be disappointed with the sharp bite

next the pickled onions... i've become a little obsessed

i made pizza the other night and pickled peppers for it

so if you follow the blog or i've cooked for you recently...

you know that i'm trying to work pickling into my food

the onions still hold an onion flavor but it is mellowed

and incorporates a sweet tanginess to the burger... love it

next was the mache i had from the previous days lunch

it's a nice mild green that adds texture to the burger

next the green zebra... a lovely green heirloom tomato

while not strong in flavor it's the texture that makes these

very crisp almost like an apple... it snaps on the burger

a texture usually reserved for a huge slice of onion

sitting high atop the burger.. the piece de resistance

the heirloom tomato ketchup... (insert groans here)

i made this using cherokee purple and brandywine tomatoes

some salt, sugar, apple cider vinegar, clove, and mace

for me, it tied the whole burger together

it worked off the garlicky aioli, onions, cheese, and burger

to create a unique flavor in every bite... i should sell it

so in the end it was a tasty burger that didn't last long

.light ladies lunch.

2010-06-28T09:33:00.000-07:00

.light ladies lunch.

smoked salmon

chevrion cheese

baguette

mache

seared halloumi cheese

heirloom tomatoes

greek olive oil

aged balsamic

this was a nice light lunch i threw together

i was thinking sandwich and salad with a twist

the heirloom tomatoes look amazing

so they were the first to make it in the basket

i've been wanting to try halloumi cheese for a while

i saw jamie oliver sear it off before so i went for it

this i finished with greek olive oil an aged balsamic

the tomatoes were nice and tart which set off the salad

beside that was a nice little open faced sandwich

i sliced the bottom off a baguette and topped it with

chevrion log goat cheese some crisp mache and smoked salmon

a hit of cracked pepper and a twist of lemon made it pop

it was a lovely little summery lunch that didn't

leave you feeling heavy or in need of a nap

.woodlands.

2010-06-26T18:35:00.001-07:00

.woodlands.

8304 valley blvd

blowing rock, nc

chopped pork barbecue

chopped beef barbecue

pork spareribs

barbecue chicken

now first bear in mind these are leftovers

while pristine and unknibbled (my new word) as they are

the feat of eat that occurred was impressive

woodlands was one of my favorite places in college

merely for the fact that the tea was sweet and the food plentiful

so of course i had to make a pilgrimage on my week back home...

got to walk around campus and see how much school has changed

the new stadium is done, the new quad will open first day of school

and the new education building is getting prepped to be walled in

it's not the same appalachian state i left nearing six years ago

but nostalgia aside it's time for some serious barbecue

the one problem i have with woodlands is that i don't want

to choose which type of barbecue i get... i want it all

but to my rescue squeals "the hog", a plate of sheer beauty

on it comes not just one type of barbecue indulgence...

oh no... that's for mere amateurs who get choosy

this southern boy needs to visit every stall in the barn

so in addition to my chopped pork and beef barbecue

i get two massive spareribs and two barbecued chicken wings

if that's not enough??? let's throw on three sides of your choosing

corn on the cob?... barbecue slaw?... fried okra!...

then slap on some hot cornbread full of jalapeno

now i know, i know, right now in your mind you're thinking

"geez what a fatty"... but i took home all the chopped barbecue

that stuff weathers well in the fridge for later snackies

i polished off the ribs, wings, sides, and cornbread

and possibly around 8 mason jars of sweet tea...

hey, i have to make up for a years worth of tea not had

so meanwhile dad goes through all but one of his half rack

and mom polishes off the white meat of her half chicken

not a bad days work gastronomically speaking

but alas tomorrow, or possibly at 2:00 tonight,

the joy of woodlands will continue anew

so for all my north carolinian followers

do yourself a favor and make the pilgrimage

head down 421 to 321 and follow the smell of smoke

right past the outback, which is crowded with

sad people who don't know what lurks next door;

a wooden shrine to the glories of meat and smoke

order your favorite incarnation and have some sweet tea

i'll know deep down that you and i are truly friends

.sweet tooth.

2010-06-20T22:54:00.001-07:00

.sweet tooth.

macadamia truffles

blackberry pate de fruit

hazelnut toffee

pb&j truffles

irish coffee truffles

chai white chocolate truffles

smoked salt caramels

so this has been another week of sugar headaches...

i feel like i've been absorbing sugar merely through

being in the same room as it for the last two weeks

not to say that the work has not been fun

it's just that the lack of savory items in my day is hard

soon everything loses flavor and just becomes "sweet"

but none the less i press on to the hopes of saltier things

we focused in on candies this week and worked in the

forms of molded, shaped, and manipulated candies

the swiss truffles were a lot of fun to mold in shells

and getting a little adventurous with the flavors paid off

the irish coffee truffles make for a nice after dinner treat

the pb&j truffles also encompassed familiar flavors

in a unique vessel for transportation

the french, or "rolled" truffles were hit and miss

the macadamia nut truffles rolled in toasted coconut were

very nice, however; the chai white chocolate were too sweet

and the "chai" flavor was strictly star anise

as for the rest they all came out rather nice with the

smoked salt caramels being a personal favorite

the right balance of sweet richness with a salty crunch

candies are a lot of work but the pay off can be rather nice

all be it sweet and coma inducing...

.beaker and flask.

2010-06-14T22:02:00.001-07:00

.beaker and flask.

720 se sandy blvd

www.beakerandflask.com

grilled scallops

smoked mussels

shaved asparagus

fava bean puree

sauteed sweetbreads

spring vegetables

bacon chowder

sweet herbs

grilled quail

pea greens

pickled rhubarb

strawberries

aged balsamic

grilled lamb

chickpea salad

grilled romaine

smoked feta

salsa verde

grilled rabbit

braised artichokes

sauteed morels

bacon

chocolate brownie

caramelized banana

foie gras mousse

so i will first preface this with a little self awareness

i understand that i get long winded and wordy when i talk about

food that absolutely blows my mind and it in turn creates insanely

long blog posts, while some may enjoy this, i'll keep this moderate

as not to bore those who do not geek out on food as i do...

beaker and flask is the 2010 portland's best restaurant

that should be descriptor enough of the caliber of cuisine

just shy of a year old, it truly pumps out some of the best food

i personally have ever eaten, i know this is about the third time

i've given this moniker to a meal but this is hands down the best

the food is a fusion of pacific northwest and french cuisine that

for the richness of the ingredients, is pleasantly light fare

so let's start at the beginning

the scallops were the most perfectly cooked scallops i have

had the pleasure of enjoying, then paired with a minty fava puree

and crisp shaved asparagus in a nice vinaigrette... magic

next, the show stopper in my book... i would eat it everyday

crispy sweetbreads served with tender peas, favas, asparagus tips,

and potatoes in a tarragon scented bacon chowder, it was surprisingly

light and the freshness of the veg with the pop of tarragon was

pure culinary artistry at it's finest moment

coaxing lightness out of rich and powerful ingredients

i want to steal this recipe...

next onto a lovely salad of pea greens with pickled rhubarb

beautiful strawberries with aged balsamic topped with charred quail

if there was anything wrong with this dish, it was that i had to share

the smoky char on the quail in conjunction with the sweet... mmmm

the entrees followed with magnificently grilled lamb with a fresh

salsa verde punching with dill on top of a chickpea salad

grilled romaine and smoked feta were just plain good to boot

then to round out the entrees was grilled rabbit fore shanks

this sat atop artichokes and mirepoix braised with crispy bacon

and a smothering of sauteed morels... someone hold me

while the lamb was outstanding on it's own...

the rabbit was the best complete entree having hearty flavors

with a restraint of richness appropriate for a spring dinner

however, the restraint went the way of the dodo when dessert arrived

a rich chocolate brownie topped with bananas caramelized with

brown sugar, butter, and a splash of rum... then what to finish with?

whipped cream is for the weak... foie gras mousse is for champions

this was just a little decadent fun at the end of the meal

that played salty fatty deliciousness off a bananas foster brownie

start to finish it was well thought out, perfectly executed fare

i have a new sight set on what innovative seasonal cuisine should be

.sugar work.

2010-06-10T13:00:00.000-07:00

.sugar work.

vanilla lavender creme brulee

dipped strawberry

salted shortbread

spun sugar

advanced baking, the realm of the sugar rush

i'm only four days in and am already tired of sweet

but it is always fun to play with flavors in whatever realm

this was my first completed dessert in this class

we work largely in component work where we make

the custard for this, the sauce for that, you get the idea

then it all comes together in a matter of moments

the other desserts will come together on the plate tomorrow

similarly to intro baking i truly do find myself enjoying the work

making caramel and pulling sugar, tempering chocolate

and baking tuile garnishes, it's satisfying

however, i leave feeling inundated with sugar

but that aside this dessert plated nicely

the creme brulee had a slight hint of lavender

which can go from subtle to bath soap easily

the shortbread was nice an crisp

i added a touch of salt to counter all of the sweet

then the sugar work also came out nice

the strawberry dipped beautifully

hence, why it is the focal point of the photo

and the spun sugar was nice and light

all together it was a nice little dessert

that i wouldn't mind ordering out somewhere

more sugar to come... i'm craving something salty

.international.

2010-06-03T13:08:00.001-07:00

.international.

dzik arepas

grilled banana leaf wrapped tamarind cod

papaya salad

sticky rice

first i must apologize for my absence

i've been in the proverbial blogging rut

and now it's time to break out

i realize it has been forever since i've last posted

but my last two classes have not been

conducive to photographing dishes and i've

been busy outside of class to be able to cook

nice things or go places to blog about

so all excuses aside i'm back and ready to go

after advanced garde i went into contemporary

where we ran the classroom much like the

line of a restaurant, each person manning a station

from being head chef (chef di partie) to

dish washer (plounger) we each had a task

it was great experience to have orders fired

and then produce your component of a dish

with the rest of your line to create a meal

however, i couldn't take ownership of any one

dish saying... "this is mine, so i'll photo it"

and now with international we have

an 8:30 deadline for presenting plates

so i'm more focused on the clock than my camera

alas i did remember once or twice so here they are

we are learning the flavor profiles of various

countries and regions from around the world

and producing dishes from each so the first

comes from the yucatan in mexico

it is a shredded beef salad called dzik (zeek)

that i stuffed into cornmeal pouches called

arepas (a-ray-pah) or gorditas depending on

where you are in central or south america

the dzik is very lime heavy and is given

texture and crunch from radish and red onion

it is usually a bar food that is served with various

small plates of other items to accompany drinks

next we travel far across the globe to the philippines

this was the first of my two black box tests

where i was given a piece of cod and

told to make a dish representing the philippines

what i came up with was rather tasty and

apparently a proper homage to the regional flavors

for the cod i combined tamarind paste, fish sauce,

and garlic and spread it on the filet which i then

wrapped in banana leaves and grilled

philippino cooking is strong in the use of tart

and sour flavors, using both tamarind

and vinegar in a number of their dishes

this was paired with a simple sticky rice

as well as a papaya salad tossed with garlic,

onion, fish sauce, and palm sugar

this was a counter to the tartness

of the cod while adding depth

much of south east asian cooking relies

on the usage of fish sauce and

fermented seafood pastes to give depth

of flavor and saltiness to their dishes

it's pretty amazing how something

that smells like death can add so much

to a dish when used properly

what i myself used to avoid

i find myself gravitating toward

to add unique flavors to much of my cooking

so i guess the moral of today's story is

sometimes stank means delicious...

.nettles.

2010-04-18T22:36:00.001-07:00

.nettles.

purple potato gnocchi

nettle puree

oregon truffle

my most recent culinary endeavor came from a stroll

through the portland farmer's market with some friends

we were each taking a part of the meal and had $15

to make our part come together on the plate

my contribution was a purple potato gnocchi

with a nettle puree and oregon truffle

it was a rather colorful dish to say the least

almost a little too psychedelic to be appetizing

in hindsight i would have rather done yukon gold

potatoes for buttery flavor and a nice light color

to accent the nettles, but you get excited in the market

flavor wise the dish was a little divided as well

the gnocchi with the truffle and some parmigiano

were very nice flavor wise, however, with the

nettles it all got muddled on the plate

the nettles finished with a spinach quality that

countered the flavors of the gnocchi so it seemed

flat when all eaten together

if i had to do it all over again

i would have scratched the nettles

and finished the gnocchi with a little

brown butter and truffle and called it a dish

it was fun to play with new ingredients

and my "bad dish" still tasted pretty fantastic

.big plates.small plates.

2010-04-09T12:46:00.001-07:00

.big plates.small plates.

nicoise salad amuse bouche

tea smoked duck breast

apricot chutney

port poached pear

mixed green salad

tea smoked duck amuse bouche

so the focus of the day was creating amuses from apps

an amuse bouche is a one bite tasting of a dish

to "amuse the mouth", they are small creations based

off of composed dishes to showcase the flavor profile

all in one little bite and to awaken the palate for the meal

the two dishes we were working on as you can see were

a nicoise salad featuring tuna confit (oil poached)

and building a dish based on tea smoked duck

the nicoise flavor wise came together nicely for me

but the plating of the full salad fell short

with all the elements on the plate it was clunky

and cumbersome and i down right hated it...

that's why there is no photo of the plate

however the amuse came together in a nice

little package to display the full flavor profile

of the salad and become one tasty little bite

the melding of the tuna, egg, green bean, olive

tomato, greens, and vinaigrette were quite nice

next on to the duck.... mmmmmmmm

the duck was lightly cured in a brine then

tea smoked with a mix of aromatics

it came out nice and smoky with that

rich ducky goodness that drives a person wild

this i paired with a chutney made from apricots

orange and shallot with some cinnamon and cardamom

it played very well with the duck and bridged the gap

between the smoky duck and the poached pear

this was gold in my book and i liked how

the plating went with both the amuse and the dish

only a minor touch on the full plate would have

made it perfection adding a few drops of reduced port

but it came to me after i had presented the dish

in all this was a insanely fun day of visualizing

and executing tiny little representations of delicious plates

.leafless.

2010-04-08T13:29:00.001-07:00

.leafless.

shaved cucumber

red onion

serrano

sesame

radish

chive

so i'm back in the world so salads and pretty things

i'm in my first week of advanced garde manger

and i'm finding that i really do enjoy the "cold" side

i find it much easier to get great clean flavors in the

salad and appetizer world so i get to hone in on plating

and creating visual appeal which is the fun part for me

we've been working on cheese making the past few days

and today we had a lot of prep work for tomorrow's plates

but with the other time we had our chef challenged us

to plate a salad that was devoid of lettuce or fruit as

the main components of the salad... i really dug this

because it forces you to rethink "salad" and focus

on flavor and plating something that would normally

play second fiddle in a big bowl of leafy green

not that my idea was breaking any new ground

i just like salads that aren't salads

so i landed on an asian cucumber salad

which was simply cucumber shaved on a spiral slicer

dressed with a nice asian dressing of mirin, soy

fish sauce, ginger, and sesame oil; accompanied by

red onion, radish, and a little serrano chili

it was a nice clean flavor with good crunch

i needed a little more acid in the dressing

i was hoping for some pickled ginger liquid but

i had to make due without... good crisp salad

and a lot of fun to plate...

.pairings.

2010-03-31T15:45:00.000-07:00

.pairings.

epicuro aglianico

salami piccante

rosemary sheep's milk cheese

french batard

food pairings can be magical experiences

when one thing can change when paired with another

it's the closest to food alchemy i can conjure

i was checking out the wine aisles at trader joe's

and i stumbled upon this aglianico which is a great red

it's a lovely wine full of dark berry and spice tones

i felt like having a little italian evening so i wandered

over to one of my favorite markets and shopped around

i came home with some artisanal salami and cheese

the salami is a hand made nitrate free salami meaning

that it is completely air dried which takes longer

but produces much more character in the finished product

the salami was very nice with a nutty spicy finish

the cheese was a nice tangy cheese with subtle rosemary

made from sheep's milk it was smooth and creamy

on the nice crusty bread it was fantastic

but as good as these were individually

they shone when they sang together

the wine which started very fruity

when had after the salami the wine finished

with the flavor of mushroom... it's a common

flavor profile but was extremely evident in this wine

then after this fun play in flavors the cheese also

wanted it's chance to blossom... after first being tangy

and rich with rosemary heading the show

the cheese brought out a smooth garlic flavor

probably a residual flavor from the salami

it was intensified with each bite of cheese

it was a fun little meal what really showed how

flavors can be manipulated and changed

merely by what it is served alongside

very fun... very delicious

.le pigeon.

2010-03-25T23:40:00.001-07:00

.le pigeon.

738 SE Burnside

www.lepigeon.com

( generic camera phone photo disclaimer)

truffle potato soup

nettles

crispy pork

pigs feet

foie gras

cipollini

egg

beef cheek bourguignon

pork

polenta

morels

broccolini

sweetbreads

scallop

salsify

citrus

vanilla creme brulee

espresso pot du creme

foie gras profiteroles

so first of all let's take a deep breath before i start

i fear i may get a little long winded trying to explain these

but truly it was an amazing feat of degustation

le pigeon is yet another that always graces the top

of each list posted about portland restaurants

and after tonight's meal i truly understand why

the restaurant is an extremely small place

but the space makes it feel more intimate and private

as if you were entering a secret society of eaters

rather than a spacious room half empty

the next thing i love is the menu

which merely lists around 4 items with no

hints to preparation or clues to how it will work

i have followed suit in the description of each photo

i love this idea because it allows mystery on the plate

..."how will my pigs feet come to the table"...

..."will i really be gnawing on a hoof in public"...

but alas it arrives and the fun of deconstructing

each masterpiece by flavor and component begins

so let us delve into this festival of food

the starters arrived at the table without

much pomp or circumstance but

in my book they were parade worthy

we'll follow the order of photography...

which i do apologize are only quick shots from an iPhone

first we have the truffle potato soup with nettles and pork

this was chosen by my sister-in-law and was a winner

the aroma of truffles permeated this bowl as you

brought your face closer toward the dish

this was enforced by the deep flavor of truffle within the soup

the nettles were combined with other undiscovered secrets

to form a puree of bright green flavor swirled within

the pork appeared to be small bits of pork belly crisped

to smoky perfection swimming in the deep end of the pool

individually each of these tastes were magic

earthy truffle, green nettle, smoky pork

but together on one spoon they seemed muddled

the smoky pork overshadowed the amazing truffle

which is a shame despite my love for the pig

still not a spoonful was left but it could have shone brighter

my dish came in the form of a pigs feet croquette

fried crispy topped with a frisee, red onion salad

roasted cipollini, a poached egg and a generous

grating of foie gras over the top of the plate

oh yes my friends, what looks like cheese adorning

my plate in the photo is actually foie... heaven

this dish was a balance of uber rich with bright punchy flavors

the pigs feet, egg, and foie all melded flavors into this

unctuous amalgam that would normally overwhelm your

very being and leave you smiling on the floor of the restaurant

the smartly chosen frisee and red onion with a balsamic vinaigrette

helped to cut all that richness and carry each flavor

further around that palate... it was the best of our three starters

my brothers (which was not photo'd before destruction)

was razor clam . bacon . celery root . frisee

it was a lovely salad of frisee and herbs with nodules of bacon

and celery root throughout, topped with a fried razor clam

it was all brought together with a spanish paprika sauce

that brought body to the whole dish

the bacon played well with the paprika and the light

flavors from the salad cut through the heaviness

to finish with the flavor of clam... nice

next on to the big event.... the main courses

my brother stopped for two seconds to take a photo

so we have actual documentation of the beef cheek bourguingnon

it was a deep rich burgundy laden dish that seemed appropriate

on a rainy night in portland, filling and complex

it hid layer after layer of slow braised wonder

that peeked out in each bite taken... it was almost

too much of a good thing, in that it overwhelmed with depth

the meat was so tender and flavorful that it screamed for

accompaniment in the form of bread for sopping the

hours of work exhibited in the rich wine sauce

while truly amazing, it was a bit rich on my palate

after all the foie gras and flavors that preceded

now on the the sister-in-law's plate... the stand out of the mains

the dish was built from a griddled polenta cake topped with

a rich morel sauce hinting garlic and cream

atop the polenta sat the crispiest, yet spoon tender piece of pork

i have possible ever had... it appears to be a section from

either that shoulder or some other secret region of pork

that has been kept secret for only the culinary elite

i say shoulder because the meat was extremely moist

and tender from copious amounts of pre-existing connective

tissue that now was mere moisture inside the meat

plus whatever diabolical means were used to get such

a crispy exterior on this pork, there must have been a large

amount of moisture internally to prevent dryness

all this to say it was a beautiful piece of pig that would

have make any movie involving a pig a happy ending

finishing this dish was charred brocollini dressed with

a creamy dressing of dill and possible rosemary

this too included red onion to play with the fat in the dish

it was a masterpiece of pork and i am slightly jealous she got it

next is my dish involving the rarely found sweetbread

without hopefully losing you and your appetite

i will explain that sweetbreads are thymus glands from cows

that after careful preparation come out as crispy

nodes of almost "chicken nugget"-like delight

yes, i know, chicken from a cow sounds odd

but it is extremely delicious if you can ever try them

my dish in general was a surprisingly asian slant for

a french restaurant, but was lovely despite the veer

the dish was built upon a celery root puree with caramelized

sections of salsify that gave great texture to the dish

the flavors form the bottom of the plate counterpointed

those that sat atop the plate...

the sweetbreads were intensely crispy and glazed with a

sweet fruit glaze that came off very similar to an asian

preparation of chicken like a general tso, where the

texture is crisp and firm and the sauce is sticky and sweet

beside the sweetbread sat a beautifully grilled scallop to

create a fun surf and turf appeal on the plate

this was all finished with a shaved fennel salad and

an eight citrus salad tossed with some sesame oil

it was an interesting plate because the bright citrusy flavors

from the top of the plate were in contrast with the earthy

puree and caramelized salsify... there were moments that

would make you stop and tilt your head with wonder

but then come to the conclusion, "that really works"

in all it was a great dish featuring a rare food item

now on to dessert... as if we needed dessert after all that food

but i am a sucker for the sweet stuff on occasion

and this occasion just so happened to involve foie gras

my sister being the creme brulee aficionado was an easy sell

her vanilla creme brulee was nice, with a slightly thicker

top shell than normal which was her only complaint

a bonus espresso pot du creme came on the side with

a chocolate shortbread cookie sitting on top

both were smooth and lovely ways to finish an amazing meal

but myself i like to throw caution to the wind and

officially "ruin" my evening with a rich dessert that

leaves me comatose mere minutes after finishing

so... "i'll have the foie gras profiteroles please"...

i imagine a clandestine meeting of the chefs one night

throwing out insane ideas to set their restaurant apart

then this idea hits the table and a devilish grin is shared

from face to face with a slow chuckle... muhahaha

the profiterole is nice and airy with a crusty exterior

then what better to place inside this hollow structure

than foie gras ice cream that highlights vanilla and cream

then plate it up with a rich salted caramel sauce and some

shaved chocolate for the plate... straight sinful...

if i were catholic i feel i would be heading to confession

the richness could have been overwhelming for the

faint of heart... but not for me... it was an exercise

in excess that only few can appreciate...

i am just fortunate i am one of those few

one of the proud few who don't turn our noses up

to daring, but boldly take up that mantle of such decadence

it was an amazing meal start to finish at an amazing place

go eat foie at le pigeon

.steak and eggs.

2010-03-23T12:52:00.000-07:00

.steak and eggs.

chicken fried steak

black pepper buttermilk biscuits

eggs three ways

breakfast deep fried.... at least that's how my stomach feels

today in class we were covering the rocky mountain states

the influence was chuck wagon cuisine in the form of breakfast

the quintessential chuck wagon delicacy being chicken fried steak

i'm not here to knock chicken fried steak and start some revolt

but man is it heavy as a gravy laden brick in your stomach

not to say that it wasn't delicious.. it just inspires the sedentary

rather then to range riding cowboy in me...

i also pulled off another delicious batch of biscuits

if you have been following me for a while you have seen these

but with a little sausage gravy slathered on top

they ascend to another plane of consciousness

one of the main focuses of the day was egg cookery

at the beginning of class we had to decide

types of eggs we were going to prepare and

today was the day we had to produce said eggs

i chose poached, over easy, and over medium

being that i feel they are some of the more difficult

methods of cooking eggs in a short order fashion

often times you get bad versions of each rather

than shining beacons of culinary prowess

it is said that the pleats in a chef's togue

represents the number of ways a chef can cook an egg

the more pleats, the more master of a chef

while we don't take our eggs as seriously as

the old french master chefs, i do think it is a skill to learn

my eggs came out rather nicely if i do say so...

and i did have confirmation from my chef that they were so

eggs just require patience and finesse which is hard

i always want to go faster than the eggs are willing

but normally the eggs win out and i am up a creek

the pan is half the battle with eggs...

you need a good nonstick pan that is solely dedicated to eggs

one that you treat like a child to maintain perfection

if you don't have one, go find a cheap restaurant grade

nonstick pan at sam's or costco and it will treat you well

well i think i need a nap after that lead horseshoe i ate

.steak frites.

2010-03-22T12:55:00.001-07:00

.steak frites.

steak au poivre

garlic asiago frites

sauteed asparagus

today was a lovely day at school

a nice slow paced day to wake up from the weekend

we were discussing the cuisine of the central plains today

so steak was a must on the menu... a nice flatiron steak

the steak was the only required element for check off today

so the sauce, starch, and accompanying veg were at my discretion

i felt like riffing on a classic "steak frites"

i wanted to build upon the classic with something even more so

i decided to prepare the steak au poivre or "with pepper"

so i very coarsely ground some black peppercorns and coated one side

to tame the peppery beast i needed a nice smooth sauce

i sweated shallot with fresh thyme and deglazed with apple brandy

we were devoid cognac so i supplanted the applejack

followed with demi glace and beef stock then reduced

once i reached a nice reduction i strained the sauce through a chinois

and then finished with cream... it was heavenly

probably the best thing on the plate even though it was a sauce

it was velvet on the tongue and had richness with a subtle

sweetness from the applejack... if i could bottle it

i could retire from the culinary field already

next to add some interest to the frites i tossed them

fresh out of the oil with garlic, parsley, and asiago

they were pretty fantastic to finish off the sauce left on the plate

the asparagus came out just perfect... tender but still crisp

in all it was a nice plate that came together fast

it also made for a delicious lunch

one of the "downsides" of culinary school

.confit crepe.

2010-03-21T21:54:00.000-07:00

.confit crepe.

buckwheat crepes

black pepper chevre

duck confit

red plum

well i stated that i needed more duck in my life...

i didn't realize it would come so soon... but i leapt

this saturday not only marks the beginning of spring

but is also the opening of the saturday farmers market

it was a day that must be properly celebrated

the market was improved over the last year...

an additional block was added, opening up the flow

and allowing passage from booth to booth much more easily

there are some new vendors that i am very excited about

and i am sure will grace the pages of this blog...

however the inaugural lauding goes to Chop charcuterie

their usual spread of pates and other delicious treats

were garnished with some newcomers to the party

amongst those sat duck confit... i was a giddy child

and for a mere $4 a leg it was going home with me

for those who are not familiar with confit

it is a process of curing then slow cooking an item

submerged in it's own fat... traditionally done with legs

using the trim fat from a duck while prepping the breasts

let's just put it this way...

if i were taken captive by cannibals

i would want to go out as confit...

anyway... all cannibal stories aside

the only questioned remained...

"do i eat the whole leg straight up?... would it be wrong?"

or how do i incorporate this delicacy of delicacies into a dish

i began pondering applications and france being the origin

i landed on crepes... the delicate wonders that love rich fillings

i whipped up a buckwheat crepe batter and knocked them out

the remainder of the crepes lay in wait in the fridge for later use

but to serve i decided to spread a thin layer of goat cheese

then top with the luscious confit... i was generous

then fold the little beauties up and marvel at their splendor

however i needed something to cut all that richness

the tang from the goat cheese would only do so much

red plums caught my eye in the store and i knew they would

suffice as a foil to the richness of the confit

they were simmered with a splash of pinot noir vinegar

all said it was a rich dish... we're talking bill gates rich

the duck is unctuous and full of flavor

then the creaminess of the chevre with the smooth crepe

the plum came with a sweetness with a hint of tart

it was pretty fantastic... but duck confit is much like bacon

it you put it on just about anything, it's gonna taste good

it was a fun little time in the kitchen...

making crepes...

moaning as wafts of confit aroma arose...

simmering fruit...

and of course.... eating

i feel the food coma setting in as i type so i bid you adieu

.daffy or donald.

2010-03-19T13:07:00.001-07:00

.daffy or donald.

seared duck breast

blood orange port gastrique

shiitake risotto

sauteed swiss chard

crispy rutabaga

pickled chard stems

there is nothing better than a crispy skinned duck

it's something i think i could enjoy daily

this was actually my first attempt at cooking duck

and i think it was fairly successful considering...

it ended slightly over where i would like it

i prefer duck medium rare... this was a solid medium

still the skin was crispy and delicious and the

duck was moist and extremely flavorful

the blood orange port gastrique was a nice pairing

it added the bright juiciness to the rich duck

the risotto was average, it wasn't my choice of pairing

i would have gone with something lighter to accompany

what sung was the chard... the nice sauteed greens

then the pickled stems.... oh the stems...

i don't do much pickling, but after this...

i believe it may become a minor obsession of mine

these were "quick pickles" only working for about an hour

they were still lovely and crisp but very floral and tangy

they helped cut the richness of the dish and gave crunch

the color was the only thing that i want to improve

i know the acidity of a pickle leeches color from food

but i'm wondering if i did more of a cold pickle

if the color won't be as effected by the hot method

it will be a delicious endeavor nonetheless...

i need more duck in my life...

.fish fish fish.

2010-03-17T15:52:00.001-07:00

.fish fish fish.

pearly meal fried cod

tartar sauce

trout almandine

fig IPA couscous

orange glazed asparagus

salmon en papillote

fig IPA couscous

orange glazed asparagus

buerre blanc

it seems the only days i remember my camera

or remember to put a memory card in the camera

is when we are cooking fish in class this rotation

we've been cooking our way across the country

in American Regional and the days that have sparked

the most excitement for me are those when we cook fish

fish was something i didn't eat much of growing up

and in the south, most fish you do eat is fried...

so it wasn't a shining beacon of culinary adventure

cooking fish really is a talent because it can go

from spectacular to horrendous in a matter of seconds

i figure that's why it's easiest to just deep fry them

so you don't really care about the fish as much as the crust

but to really coax beauty out of fish it something i want to learn

but of course we start off with a nice southern fried fish...

but even finding perfection in that is crucial

a nice crunchy exterior giving way to moist flaky bliss

we used pearly meal as a traditional breading for the fish

corn being a large crop, pearly meal is a mix of corn flour & meal

if gives a nice sturdy exterior with little crunch nuggets

personally it's a little too much corn in flavor

but the texture is pretty fantastic as far as breadings go

next, during our cajun and creole day we made

pecan crusted fried catfish that was beautiful

in the way that only good pecans deep fried on fish can be...

but alas no photos were made nor did a piece survive

now on to proper fish cookery...

while delving into the cuisine of the pacific northwest

we worked two classic techniques into our repertoire

trout almandine is a pretty phenomenal combination

of trout with brown butter, almonds, and a splash of lemon

i've had my share of bad trout over the years

but this flavor profile works well with the flavor of trout

the nutty brown butter plays off the almonds nicely

while the lemon cuts the richness of the butter laden fish

the "fishiness" of the trout is mellowed by the nuttiness

really really nice dish... classics are classic for a reason

next was salmon en papillote or "salmon in paper"

basically place a filet inside a parchment package

along with some thinly sliced vegetables and herbs

splash in a little liquid... i used an IPA for some bitterness

then wrap it into a neat package and bake for 10 minutes

present it in the package and cut it open table side

to allow the aromas to envelop your guests... delicious

the beurre blanc was more a technique requirement

rather than an actual pairing with the salmon

en papillote is usually very delicate so a rich sauce

such as a beurre blanc would cover the flavors

however... it was a particularly good beurre blanc

and it was pretty magical to dip the asparagus into

in summation... i love cooking fish, i need to do it more often

especially living here in the pacific northwest

where i have access to some choice selection

.tools of the trade.

2010-03-16T15:52:00.000-07:00

.tools of the trade.

Shun Classic

Shun Kaji Fusion

Block Party

Global

i have a thing for knives... that should be fairly obvious

there are girls who love shoes... guys who love cars...

...i love knives...

the combination of form and function that comes

together to a razor sharp edge... it makes me happy

my first knives i ever owned were Global knives

i first saw them in the hands of Giada De Laurentiis...

and of course it was love at first sight... with the knives...

the one piece construction and the sand filled handle

made for perfect balance in the hand and made them crazy light

this is perfect for the smaller knives that feel more like an

extension of the hand rather than a huge clunky piece of metal

the larger knives are great but at times seemed too light

then i discovered Shun... and of course... i had to have them

my brother registered for Shuns in his wedding registry

and after using them once i was hooked

both Globals and Shuns are Japanese blades

which means a few things about their construction...

they are forged knives that are folded numerous times

to create a super hard metal that holds their edge extremely well

being super strong they can also be ground to a finer angle

than your standard German (Wusthof & Henkels) blade

rather than a German 22 degree angle... Japanese are 16 degrees

this means a sharper knife that will cut amazingly well

so i started my Shun collection with a Kaji Fusion slicer

a 9" curved slicing blade with a "Ken Onion" handle

this guy was gorgeous and could cut paper thin slices of anything

i ended up with three of these beauties (santoku & utility) in all

then when i started working for Sur La Table i was informed

that there were Shun incentives during the months of Nov. & Dec.

for every Shun i sold i would receive 8% in knives... be still my heart

i ended up being able to get three knives with all my sales

and they just arrived in the mail today... it's christmas all over

so i look forward to deepening my love affair with Shun

while using my shiny new 10" chef, 7" Nakiri, and 7" Gokujo

on a side note... knives really are an important tool in the kitchen

if you have the means, go pick up three knives

and they will change the way you enjoy cooking... i guarantee it

go get either a chef's knife or santoku-(if you cook more veg)

this will be your go-to knife so find a comfortable size for you...

a nice solid bread knife... offset are the best

and a comfortable pairing knife around 4"

these three knives will do most any job you need

and be sure you have a nice honing steel to keep them sharp

of course i would recommend Shun because they stay sharper longer,

well let me know if you go grab some new knives and what you think!

.final exam.

2010-03-04T13:12:00.001-08:00

.final exam.

seared 7-spice scallops

shiitake, onion, haricot vert tempura nest

sweet soy oyster paint

eggplant romaine salad

orange vinaigrette

crispy eggplant

orange supremes

pistachios

asiago

so here it is... the final black box exam for garde manger

two hours to crank out an appetizer and salad

scallops, romaine, orange, asiago, shiitake, and haricot vert

GO!..................

i decided to spearhead the time consuming appetizer first

this, by design, has more elements and takes longer

the ingredients screamed asian to me so that was the route taken

i created a 7-spice rub for the scallops that was a riff off 5-spice

then the shiitake and haricot vert begged to be fried...

so i obliged them in a quick tempura batter with sliced onion

these were tossed in a little sesame oil and salt to finish

then for the plate i worked a little sweet soy with some oyster sauce

cut with a little pickled ginger liquid and painted it onto the plate

in all the flavors were nice but the thickness of the sauce made

it difficult to actually eat with the scallop so i was docked a little

next on to the salad... and a slight mental road block

the ingredients left were romaine, orange, and asiago

the asiago and romaine were pushing towards caesar

but i knew that was too common of a thought so i steered clear

after staring blankly at my station for a few minutes

my thought was a nice light orange vinaigrette

this would let the asiago and other elements pop on the palate

however, i needed a secondary element for the salad

the purple eggplant caught my eye in the walk-in

i grabbed my peeler and took some thin shaves to use

some i julienned to incorporate with the romaine

then a few of the prettier shaves i fried up till crispy

crunch was the next element i was needing for the salad

i discovered the pistachios in dry storage

and after sampling a few decided they would do nicely

all together the salad worked well visually and flavor-wise

garnished with a spoon of vinaigrette and some crushed pistachios

it came together nicely with the crispy eggplant atop the salad

on final judgement i was docked for my lettuce

a few pieces of the romaine i cut came off a little long

and were a little cumbersome on the fork

it was deserved but minor at best

all said and done i got a 95 and can't complain

there were a few things i would have improved

but as they say... hindsight is 20/20

i've really enjoyed garde manger and the creativity

that it promotes... plating and food design are what i dig

next i move on to american regional to cook across the country

should be fun and i look forward to some good food

.another salad.

2010-03-01T21:18:00.000-08:00

.another salad.

curly endive

braeburn apple

lavender cheddar

crushed cashews

jerez sherry vinaigrette

so here i am again making yet another salad...

the good thing about salad is that variety is easy

a different green here, another vinaigrette there

they can be entirely different creatures by slight change

we had to create a salad for class and include recipe,

procedure, and plating diagram before all was said and done

it was a fairly simple assignment, but i found myself

staring at things in the produce aisle without a clue

i am beginning to appreciate the black box tests

in that they steer you with the selection of ingredients

when the blinders are off again it can be a little overwhelming

so beauty was my muse in the market for today

i'm becoming more and more a fan of bitter greens

so the curly endive, or chicory frisee, had me at hello

next something sweet to tame the bitter beast...

so i wandered to the fruit and my eye was caught

an organic red beauty captured my gaze...

but after i quit staring at the girl i grabbed an apple

(only kidding... or am i...?)

i was reminded of some cheese we have sitting at home

and i knew it was meant to be...

my roommate brought home some Rogue Creamery cheeses

on her recent trip home and the lavender cheddar seemed fit

the chocolate stout cheddar will have to wait for another day

next to bolster the texture element i headed to the nuts

cashews just seemed the most appealing at the time

plus i can eat the rest of the can later... win, win... win

all composed it was a nice salad... good flavors and balance

the plating was fun as well as trying to build interest on the plate

this was to be a "composed" salad so i took extra care

composed meaning it is visually duplicated every time it is sent out

rather than a tossed salad that is thrown into a bowl...

we move into hors d'oeuvres this week.. so a reprieve from salad

eat your greens!!!... it makes your momma happy...

.boîte noire deux.

2010-02-26T13:43:00.000-08:00

.boîte noire deux.

grilled provencal chicken medallions

shaved fennel cucmber salad

orange red pepper garnish

fennel frond coulis

today was our appetizer black box in garde manger

my "box" contained chicken, orange, fennel, and red pepper

my palate was feeling very french today so i followed

i shaved the fennel bulb and some cucumber on the mandolin

then arranged them ever so gently around the plate

i made supremes from the orange and thinly julienned the pepper

these got to know each other in the orange's juice with a hint of salt

the chicken marinated in a little herbs de provence finished

with some fresh orange juice and extra virgin olive oil

this was lightly grilled off and then cut into the medallions

the fennel frond i lightly blanched and took for a ride

in the blender with a little grapeseed oil for body

a simple orange vinaigrette dressed the salad

and the rest was assembled together and garnished

i really loved the flavor profile of this dish

the nice light salad with citrus, then the herbed chicken

they played well giving the crisp coolness and savory salt

this one is a keeper... and got me a perfect score...

.there's an app for that.

2010-02-25T13:36:00.001-08:00

.there's an app for that.

seared scallop

lentil walnut salad

pepper coulis

tandoori chicken

lentil walnut salad

orange chili gastrique

seared tuna

shiitake mushroom salad

sweet soy

wasabi cream

tuna carpaccio

shiitake mushroom salad

sweet soy

wasabi cream

in garde manger we've been continuing into proper apps

we've been working with versatile salads and preparing

various proteins to accompany the salads on the plate

the first is a simply seared scallop plated with

a lentil walnut salad... the salad is nice but is hard to pair

we were locked into using a mustard walnut vinaigrette

so the salad seemed very one note and stifled some creativity

it was a simple presentation using the pepper coulis

the chicken was a tandoori style marinade using yogurt

it was spiced with garlic, turmeric, and other spices

it was also simply grilled and served alongside the salad

finished with an orange chili gastrique to lend sweet and heat

the seared tuna had a spiced sesame crust that was a little strong

the coriander in the crust overpowered some of the subtlety of tuna

the shiitake salad was very nice, dressed with a tamari sake dressing

the carpaccio was also nice and light and worked well with the salad

tomorrow is our appetizer black box so more fun creativity will ensue

.2+2=4.

2010-02-22T12:25:00.000-08:00

.2+2=4.

grilled pineapple

jicama salad

plate 1:

plate 2:

roasted beet

gorgonzola salad

plate 1:

plate 2:

so the topic of the day was plating...

plating is an interesting subject because it's so relative

one person's masterpiece is another's disaster...

we started the day with a demo of creating cheese plates

each person was given two plates and similar ingredients

and not a single plate looked the same...

each had it's own character and design,

in this we discussed use of positive and negative space

color, size, shape, height, manipulation, etc

it was a fun class to talk about...

however the application can be mind numbing

our assignment in the kitchen was to take two salads

and work up two different platings for each salad

trying to bear in mind all the aspects of plating

the consensus was that the first was always the easiest

you can start with a blank slate and create anew

but the second plating you get so focused

on not making the second look like the first

they tend to suffer in the delivery

in all it was a interesting to see how all of

the same ingredients can look so different

based solely on who puts them on the plate...

.black box.

2010-02-19T12:46:00.001-08:00

.black box.

spinach apple salad

crispy red onions

toasted walnuts

asiago fricco

fig vinaigrette

today was our first "black box" challenge in garde manger

it's less exciting as it sounds because there is no actual black box

we are just given a list of ingredients we must use within a salad

i admit it would be much better if there were an actual box...

but some things are left only for the food network...

so my items were spinach, apple, walnuts, and asiago

i was a little disappointed at the combination of ingredients

i was hoping for a creamier cheese or different fruit....

but if you got what you wanted it wouldn't be a challenge

so as i began working the dish out in my head I found elements

that really worked... the vinaigrette came first

it is the flavor base for the whole dish so i knocked it out

so that it could have time to develop and meld in the fridge

i discovered a spiral slicer in the kitchen so the inspiration

for the apples and onions sprang from that find...

the asiago fricco was more of a textural decision

but it added that lovely salt and nuttiness to the dish

really my biggest apprehension about the plate was the spinach

it was baby spinach, so i really didn't want to slice it...

but in the end i went for it and i believe it worked for the dish

the only flaw i felt in the dish was the apple...

it wasn't a very flavorful apple so it watered down the flavor

rather than adding to the sweetness so it fell a bit flat

all in all i was pleased with the design and flavor profile...

i should have just grabbed another apple and started over

but that is why they call it a learning experience...

.garde manger.

2010-02-17T22:19:00.001-08:00

.garde manger.

crab and avocado salad

salsa fresca

creme fraiche

red pepper coulis

soba noodle salad

so the baking days are over... and i don't want another carb

so now on to garde manger (gar majay) and cold food

pretty much anything cold, sans dessert comes from here

so it's a nice change of pace from butter-sugar overload

we started the week making classic vinaigrettes and salads

such as a caesar and frisee salads... but now on to more fun

today we delved into cold apps that were fun to compose

the crab and avocado "salad" was nice to construct trying to

balance each layer to create a proper strata in the ring mold

each element was nice (sans crab) and according to a friend

the final product was light and very refreshing...

wish i could have tried it all together but anaphylaxis is no fun

the soba noodle salad also turned out nicely as typical asian fare

it is dressed with miso and tamari with notes of sesame and spice

the carrot and scallion added crunch with some freshness

the focus is really plating here which is always a lot of fun

using coulis and other sauces will be fun to splash around plates

so here's to the start of three week break from sugar and carbs...